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The Risks Associated With Buying Gold Coins

Buying gold coins can be very rewarding and potentially profitable. But there are many precautions that one must be aware of before buying their first gold coins. These precautions can mean the difference between a sizeable gain or a huge loss. Some of these precautions may not be as obvious as others.

The first precaution is that buyers must buy their coins slabbed or straight from the U.S. Mint. The chance of guying a counterfeit gold coin is very real. The perpetrators can easily make a fake gold coin that costs $200 dollars in gold, but can sell for thousands. A lot of times the percentage of gold within these coin are very low compared to the percentage of gold within the 파일코인채굴 . Even if the coin is real, you can still be ripped off. Gold dealers used to use a fine file to shave off a little gold off of each coin. By the end of the day, they would have a good amount of gold dust that they could sell later. So always buy them from the mint or slabbed by PCGS or NGC.

Lets say that you went to a reputable dealer so you don’t have to worry about being ripped off. Well, they have their own ways to rip you off. They try to sell you a Gold Eagle with a guarantee. A normal Gold Eagle might go for $115. But they might charge you $150 for a Gold Eagle that is guaranteed to grade an MS65 or better. Heck, it might even grade an MS70! The problem with this is that all the Gold Eagles today would grade an MS65 or better anyways. They will all grade an MS68 to MS70. So even if it graded an MS65, MS66, or MS67, it would be worth anymore money anyways. Furthermore, these coins will never grade an MS70. The ones that could have graded an MS70 have already been cherry picked. These companies always give you a one month guarantee. If it doesn’t grade the MS65 that they guarantee, they will give you a refund if you simply return the coin back to them within a month. The problem with this is, it takes almost a month to grade a coin. And while you’re waiting for them to ship your coin back, it will be at least a month for the whole process. But lets say that you make it by the nick of time. Once they receive your coin, they will refund your money. But, you’ve already lost $25-$35 dollars to grade the coin and you still have nothing to show.

Buying gold coins depends on the gold market. If you don’t be careful, you might end up losing a lot of your money. You notice that a certain group of gold coins keeps going up in value and it never seems to stop going up. So you buy in hoping to make money. It goes up when gold goes up. In bull markets, these coins can go sky high. But once the gold rush is over, these coins drop to pennies on the dollar. What happened? You bought the better date or common gold coin in the middle of its’ rise. It went up with the price of gold. You didn’t buy a rare gold coin because you didn’t have the extra $250K laying around. So you bought this better date for $25K and its’ book value kept rising. When gold collapsed, so did your coin’s value. Now it’s worth $6K. What were you thinking of? It could never be worth much more because it’s only a better date or a common date. It won’t recover until gold goes up to those levels again. You could easily be waiting for 20-30 more years before it recovers. So you might as well sell it and use the money for something else.

The next time you look for gold investments, make sure you buy a rare gold coin. If the coin is too expensive, trying buying a lower grade or switching to a different series. It’s almost worthless to buy a common gold coin


What Are My Coins Worth? – An Introduction to Coin Grading

One of the first things that a beginning coin collector does is try to determine how much a coin is worth, and he almost immediately encounters are the words “grade” and “condition.” Just what is a “grade” and what determines what grade a coin receives is a topic of debate among collectors throughout their collecting lives. Is it an art or a science? Can it be learned? Can I learn to grade my own coins?

Good questions all, and more easily asked than answered.

The condition of a coin is one of the components of how collectable and how valuable a coin is. The other main components in determining value are rarity and demand. Age is often only a minor consideration in determining the coin’s value. A rare new coin may be much more valuable than a common old coin. A coin in excellent condition is often worth far more than a coin in bad condition. And a rare coin in bad condition may be worth more than a common coin in beautiful condition. And naturally, if nobody wants a coin, its value isn’t very high (But demand or desire for a coin often fluctuates, so the same coin that is worth $50 today may be worth $20 or $75 next year!)

William H. Sheldon devised the grading system that is commonly used by numismatists today. Prior to Sheldon’s system coins were simply described by such terms as “good,” or “fine,” or “extremely fine.” But these terms were somewhat vague, and there was no real standardization of what a “fine”파일코인채굴 should look like.

Sheldon devised a numerical scale which ran from 1 to 70. The higher the number, the better a coin’s condition was in the opinion of the grader. A detailed description of the grading system is beyond the scope of this article, but may be addressed in the future.

So what is usually considered in determining a coin’s condition?

1. Whether or not a coin has circulated. An uncirculated coin is usually assigned a higher grade than a circulated coin. Unless a coin is certified as uncirculated by a reputable third-party grading service the determination of whether a coin is considered uncirculated is often the result of examining the attributes described below.

2. The Quality of a Coin’s Strike. This occurs at the time a coin is minted. A coin can be said to be strongly struck or weakly struck. Among the factors determining the quality of a coin’s strike is the pressure with which the coin is struck, the quality of the planchet used to produce the coin, and the quality of the die used to strike the coin. This will determine how crisp the design elements appear on the coin. This can vary greatly from type to type, from year to year, and even from mint to mint. So comparing the strike quality of a Lincoln Cent to that of a Winged Liberty (Mercury) Dime is not very helpful. But looking for variations within a type (among 1919 Lincoln Cents, for example) is a determining factor in value. A particularly well-struck coin may bring a premium. A relatively weakly struck coin is not considered as desirable.

3. Current Surface Condition vs. Original Surface Condition (Often referred to as “Surface Preservation.”). What I am referring to here is the presence of nicks, scratches, gouges, and other types of damage to the surface of a coin. Some coins are more susceptible to damage in certain areas. The absence or presence and the extent of this damage is what a grader is looking for. And the damage considered acceptable in some coins is almost ruinous in others. Another phenomenon I have noticed is that some collectors consider damage to the obverse (heads) side of the coin more serious than damage to the reverse (tails) side of the coin.

4. Luster. The best way I can describe this is the “texture” of the coin’s surface. Some people refer to it as how shiny a coin is. This can be very misleading because a coin may have been cleaned, which can produce a shiny appearance, but the surface of the coin has been marred in the cleaning process (or even have had the original surface molecules of the coin completely removed), which results in a lower degree of luster. In addition, certain surfaces and certain coins have different surface features. A satiny, mirror-like, or frosty surface may be the norm in specific coins. The more of the original surface which remains, generally speaking, the better a coin’s luster.

5. Color. Although it sounds simple, this is often a difficult concept, and is often quite subjective. Certain coins maintain their original color as they age. Some coins naturally change color, or “tone,” despite the fact that no physical damage has been done to them. Some collectors pay premiums for “well-toned” silver coins which may acquire all the colors of the rainbow on a single surface of the coin. Some collectors would never touch a toned coin, and are very dismayed to find that over time their “perfect” silver dollar has been “ruined.”

6. Eye-Appeal. Again, this can be considered a very subjective part of Coin Grading, although many collectors will tell you that this is not the case. Just as the words imply, this is an overall perception of how attractive a coin is. Coins with low eye-appeal are not considered as marketable or collectable, and are therefore considered of lower value.

There are resources in the form of books, magazines, journals, websites, and even software which can help in determining the grade of a coin. Some of these even include photographs of individual coins in various grades so that it is possible to compare a coin in your possession to the photograph to help determine its grade. Once a coin’s condition or grade has been determined there are may resources that are available to help you determine the value of a coin in the marketplace. Everything from the Official Red Book, to monthly magazines, to the website of the Professional Coin Grading Service can help with that. There are even websites like Coinflation, which will help you determine the value of a coin if you decide you just want to melt it down for the silver or gold it contains